AZERBAIJAN
As Described…
We had come to the border with the Mediterranean Sea, and I felt us turn towards the east and glide above the ancient lands of Mesopotamia and Persia into the Caucasus region of Central Asia to Azerbaijan…Looking out to the water which from this point was Baku Bay spilling into the landlocked Caspian…To our south lay industrial Baku, where oil refineries were belching noxious fumes into the air.
It’s a Muslim country but borders both of the first two Christian countries, that is the first two countries to convert, Armenia and Georgia…
My thoughts returned to where we had landed, in the easternmost of the three little countries that formed the land bridge along the Caucasus Mountains between the Black Sea and the Caspian Sea. Countries that were distinct beyond religion. Surrounded by mega-neighbors, Russia – the Cossacks, to the north, Turkey – the Ottomans, and Iran – the Persians to the south, these countries crawled out of the breakup of the Soviet Union with history and pride in tact to reclaim the wondrousness of their forgotten independent existence.
The Azeris moved frantically in and out of the construction sites that covered their largest city. Friendly in a calculating behavioral reaction that compels one to reconsider whether the carpet you had just bought was really a bargain or the taxi driver had really taken you to where you had wanted to go. But it was an easy Muslim country, in that they had no commanded head-to-toe coverage for women, which I always appreciated.
Baku maintained the wistful freedom of a seabound city, although it was against a landlocked sea. Families strolled the waterside bulvar or promenade appearing grateful and happy to be young at this point in their country’s history. Carpet sellers displayed glorious wools and silks in the vibrant blues and reds of the local motifs. The people were edgy but not bustling. If there was a sense of urgency, it did not intrude nor unnerve. It was released in a newly prosperous oil money found manifestation like lottery winners who still feel that they must earn it.
Couples walked together piously, few displayed public affection but you had the impression that they were more shy than wary of retribution. If you looked patiently, you could almost catch one or two holding hands on a park bench without fear of reprimand or arrest. All three Caucasus countries were battling territorial wars, legacies of migration, development and Soviet divide and conquer strategies, but the broader religious battle of our age did not seem a threat here. At least not as we were there, within those city walls.
We had crossed out of the seafront Primorsky Park promenade lined with rising new hotels to return to the restored narrow streets of the Old City. Wandering away from the tall, stone Maiden’s Tower looming over the waterfront with its varied origin stories, we were absorbed into the ancient sandstone walls. Having been washed and carefully re-created, the area was now quiet and restrained by the hushed sensation to maintain order where the oldest sentries still might tread.
– Describing Azerbaijan from Walking with J by Karsten Quarters
Quick Facts…
Place: Azarbaycan Respublikasi, Republic of Azerbaijan, between the Caucasus mountains and the Caspian Sea in Central Asia
Visited: Once
Most Recent Visit: TBD
Original sites: Use your imagination
Familiarity: Medium
English usage: Rare
Surprise: The breezy easygoing nature of the capital city at the waterfront (not everywhere)
For Rising Entrepreneurs Expanding to Global Markets: Still a struggle given the settling of civil society and cultural considerations.
Country Details: U.N. Country Data Stats for Azerbaijan
Reading Recommendations (click the book cover to learn more)
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